After exploring the first step of creating denim through the choice of cotton (article link), let’s move on to the second step :
Discover the transformation of fibres to yarns, first important step in the value supply chain.
Yarn quality influences not only strength and durability of the final denim cloth, it influences the dyeing and finishing process and also the final aspect of the product. Making strong, smooth and regular yarns out of tuft requires smart thinking. Because once it’s spun, it can’t be undone.
There are several spinning systems in use for cotton and each system results in different yarn qualities. Depending on the quality of the tuft and the desired end-result (and price) of the yarn, the spinning technician selects the right system :
It is the more authentic and qualitative type of spinning.
In the spinning step, the yarn is not formed by passing the tuft through a spinneret, but by passing it through a drawing and rotation system at high velocities.
The popularity of this new spinning system is growing. The Compact System does not differ much from the ring system in regard to the quality of the final thread. Notably different is the fluffiness of the final product: compact spinning yarns are less fluffy than yarns produced with the Ring or OE system. This is the work of a special system of fibre orientation which gets the thread at considerably higher velocities than through the ring system. Denim fabrics made with Compact System yarns usually have a cleaner surface than fabrics with ring-spun yarns.
Rotor or Open End System (OE System)
This type of spinning has always been the most frequently used for manufacturing denim. It is particularly accepted for medium or low quality cotton with differences in length of the fibres. This process of spinning results in a final yarn that may have irregularly arranged fibres. In the OE System the thread is formed by passing the cotton through a spinneret where a combination of tension and air finishes the process.
Other type of spinning are used in the denim industry…